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Tailoring Titans: The Ultimate Guide to Altering Heavyweight Denim Jeans

Before and after chainstitch hemming alterations example, with Samurai 25-ounce jeans. Shortened to 26-inseam jeans, the thick denim is so heavy and stiff that the cut-off selvedge hem can stand on its own.

By Maurice Malone Published December 1, 2023

In the world of denim, heavyweights like the formidable 25-oz. Samurai and the robust 21-oz. Simple and Raw Heavy Martin jeans are not just garments; they're statements of style and durability. However, when it comes to tailoring these thick denim beasts, many find themselves in a bind. The challenge is finding a tailor who can handle the heft and intricacy of heavyweight denim.

At our denim studio, located at the heart of Greenpoint, Brooklyn, at 67 West Street, we specialize in the art of denim alterations, especially the heavyweight jeans category that many shy away from. Heavyweight denim, like Samurai, and Simple and Raw brands, is no easy feat to alter. It requires not just the right machinery but also a deep understanding of the fabric's nature.

Our expertise lies in chainstitch hemming, a technique synonymous with quality denim finishing. Chainstitching, often confused with less durable hemming methods, is what gives premium jeans their iconic look and durability.

At our studio, we boast two Union Special chain stitching machines, revered in the denim world. Our main workhorse of the two is a custom-built Union Special 56300 that we call the beast, which never met a fabric that it could not conquer.

But it's not just about having the right tools. Hemming heavyweight denim like 25-oz. jeans requires a nuanced approach, from selecting the right needle size to ensuring the thick, ropey weave doesn't unravel. This is where our expertise shines.

We've seen our fair share of jeans that have suffered at the hands of regular tailors—uneven seams, broken needles, you name it. That’s why denim enthusiasts turn to us to undo the damage and add the professional touch of chain stitching. And we deliver every time.

Before and after chainstitch hemming alterations example on heavy martin 21 oz Simple and Raw Denim heavyweight jeans, that are professionally tailored by Williamsburg Garment Company, to shortened inseam length, with added bar tacks.

Our process is straightforward and tailored to your needs. Need to see the difference? Take a look at our gallery showcasing before-and-after images of hemmed heavyweight jeans. We pay attention to the smallest details, ensuring that each pair of jeans retains its original character while fitting you perfectly.


Visiting our studio at 67 West Street doesn’t require an appointment. We're always ready to provide personal service and get your alterations right. Not in the city? No problem. Our online services are as seamless as shopping for any product, complete with convenient, low-cost 2-way shipping.


Understanding the urgency of our clients, we offer various hemming services: regular, same-day, and next-day, all priced competitively to ensure you get the best service without breaking the bank.


So, whether you're sporting a pair of Samurai jeans, thick denim jeans, or any heavyweight denim, bring them to us. We assure you that your beloved jeans will be in the best hands. Our studio is more than a tailoring shop; it’s a haven for denim lovers seeking the best in denim alterations.