Chainstitch hemming with indigo dye thread
By Maurice Malone Published May 23, 2022
We used tex 80 A&E indigo pigment-dyed thread to provide expert chainstitch hemming on this pair of coarse in textured indigo yarn Okayama Denim x Pure Blue Japan collaboration jeans. The unique thing about the thread is it fades with the fabric. Unlike polyester content threads, it fades a little with each wash and over time with wear, and stays tone-on-tone with the denim.
We use specialized industrial sewing machines for chainstitch hemming. A chainstitch is the type of stitch most commonly used to sew the hem of jeans.
What really sets us apart from a local tailor and even other denim specialists, is our extensive library of threads. To match a jean's original factory top stitch thread size, we typically use tex 105, sometimes tex 80, and rarely tex 60. Generally, our top stitch thread sizes range from tex 80 to 105, while tex 60 is used as the chainstitching on the inside of jeans.
Most cleaners would use a size 40 thread, or worst smaller. Other denim speciality shops most likely work with tex 60 and max out at tex 80, unless they are also in thge business of making jeans like us.