Premium Denim: Learn how we made the vintage wash work pants

Posted by Maurice Malone on 1st Nov 2016

Premium Denim: Learn how we made the vintage wash work pants

A beautiful American made pant well worth the wait and the story behind the making

The long awaited canvas inspired work pants are now stocked in our Brooklyn denim store at 181 Havemeyer Street in Williamsburg. This style, originally planned for Spring release was pushed back several times because of its difficult and complexed wash.

Available sizes stocked in sizes 29 to 48. American made long inseam pants also stocked.

Shop sizes: 29 to 38

Shop Tall Men's pants sizes: 33 to 42

Shop Big Men's Big and Tall pants sizes: 40 to 48

Premium denim washed canvas work pants made in USA

The original design sample was created combining several colors on a light tan twill fabric. The original base color is nowhere to be seen in the final product color. Specific instructions were given to make the wash to appear three dimensional. This would be achieved by layering multiple colors on top of the light base color, then removing the colors in the wash. This was to replicate aging and soiled in colors which happens over time. Dirt and activities from working become ground it and then get rubbed off at the surface in abrasive actions. The combination of balancing the colors in the right areas then removing them proved problematic to recreate in production, taking months and several attempts to formulate (record steps of wash process for duplication).

Even after the production was completed and ready to ship, the style was once again rejected and sent back to wash during packing. Based in New York, I can’t always be at the Los Angeles based laundry to check and oversee the wash production. I have to rely on the factories to check whether the production matches the approved sample.

Although the wash factory has proven it could recreate the wash once, doesn’t mean after each individual process is repeated over and over during mass production, the final outcome will match the preproduction sample. One miss-step or over or under application could make a difference, so I asked the sewing factory to send me a photo as they packed orders.

Vintage wash canvas work pants samples

The cell phone photo was not very clear and the color was bad but I could see something could be wrong, so I asked for a photo of a production pant next to the original sample. In the side by side photo, I saw production pants had less overall abrasion and the colors meant to give the three dimensional appearance were too pronounced and needed to be worn away more. I then sent them back to be rewashed.